Kokomo
We actually interviewed Ria and Kevol Graham, owners of the Caribbean restaurant Kokomo, a few months ago. Then the married couple of three years welcomed their new baby just before we planned to snap their portrait! The restaurateurs met on the job four years ago, back when Ria worked in restaurant marketing and hired Kev (who at the time planned private dining experiences) to produce a pop-up event. Creating their Williamsburg spot together was second nature. “We both have backgrounds in hospitality and love giving people a great experience,” says Kev, 36. “So we wanted to bring that to the Caribbean world.”
Serving pan-Caribbean fare with nods to African, Indian and Chinese influences across the region’s cuisine, Kokomo is also a celebration of the young family’s culture: Kev, raised in the Bronx, was born in Jamaica, while Brooklyn-bred Ria has roots in Trinidad and Grenada. Yet when it came to a name for their restaurant, which opened in July 2020, they chose the fictional island getaway referenced in a 1988 Beach Boys song.
“The song’s about love and escape. Given the fact that this business was born out of our marriage and us wanting to leave behind everything for our family and the culture, we felt like Kokomo was a good fit,” says Ria, 27. “When people think of the name, they think of the loving aspect behind it.”
“It was important to us to keep this strictly Black-owned. It’s empowering for our culture and our people to see that we were able to do this on our own.”
Kokomo was designed to evoke a tropical getaway, and Ria and Kev *nailed* it. The 130-seat restaurant is resplendent with many lavish details that make you feel transported. One area is wrapped in a mural of lush foliage, a striking chandelier and skylight looming overhead. Another room features intricate macrame lanterns and blue suede seats that double as swing sets extending from a checkerboard ceiling. Tabletops are works of watercolor art. The massive bar is constructed with hundreds of gold-painted “bamboo” shoots. Natural wood, stone and vegetation interplay with vivid textiles. All this thoughtful decor — only to open just as COVID-19 hit.
“It was hard for us to have all of these bills while expecting to open, but then not have customers because no one can go outside,” Ria says on the challenge of opening a restaurant in 2020.
“But we decided against seeking investors because we didn't want our brand to be diluted.” Sticking by their authenticity paid off. The first day that Kokomo opened for outdoor seating, customers from all across the city came and lined up around the block. “It was important to us to keep this strictly Black-owned,” says Kev.
“It’s empowering for our culture and our people to see that we were able to do this on our own.”
Its pan-Caribbean concept may sound par for the course, but the Kokomo menu teems with unexpected, exciting dishes. We came for Friday brunch (also available on Saturdays and Sundays), starting with a stack of moist plantain pancakes made even more decadent with berry compote and coconut whipped cream (and, of course, sweet plantains). The Caribbean-spiced lamb chops and potatoes — tender, well-seasoned and topped with a poached egg — is another standout.
You’ll have to try their popular flatbreads (we had the wild mushroom and truffle version topped with arugula and grana padano cheese, and the braised oxtail flatbread with tomato confit and fried onion). We also enjoyed the wholesome Caribbean bowl piled high with callaloo, ackee and saltfish, avocado, sweet plantains, boiled dumpling and boiled egg, as well as some of Kokomo signature (and strong) cocktails. And for our vegan friends: the menu is packed with plant-based options, including pasta tossed in creamy cashew sauce, mushrooms and veggies, and lentil meatballs in coconut curry.
“We were nervous opening in Williamsburg because it’s a bit of a drive away from the Caribbean community, and then the neighborhood might not want Caribbean food,” Ria says. “It was a real ‘Jesus, take the wheel’ kind of moment. But the response from the community has been a blessing.”
65 Kent Ave, Brooklyn, 347- 799-1312, kokomonyc.com
