Cafe On Ralph (Closed)
Photos courtesy of Cafe on Ralph
UPDATE: This business has closed, but you can still enjoy its menu at sister restaurant Brooklyn Beso (370 Lewis Avenue).
Donna Drakes and Jamal Joseph, the mother-and-son duo behind Cafe On Ralph, have always been close — they practically grew up together. “I got pregnant at the age of 13,” Donna explains.
After being “kind of ostracized” by family in her native St. Lucia, she moved to Brooklyn to live with her mother and aunt. At 14 she had a baby boy, Jamal, and teen motherhood never dimmed her ambition. Today Donna owns not only Cafe On Ralph in Bed-Stuy but also Brooklyn Beso Restaurant & Bar and two daycare centers.
“My opportunities were not the same,” Donna, 43, says of what drives her hustle. “Coming from St. Lucia, not having a green card or being a citizen, plus being a young mom, I knew I had to work harder than the norm.”
Meanwhile, Jamal paid close attention to his mother’s entrepreneurial endeavors. He was a pre-med college student in 2012 when Donna opened Brooklyn Beso, her first restaurant venture. Inspired by the business she was building, he changed his major to hospitality management.
When Donna bought Cafe on Ralph from its previous owners in 2018, she recruited her son to completely overhaul and manage the spot. “I’ve been able to make my own decisions on how I wanted Cafe On Ralph to be, and cultivate my personality into the experience,” Jamal, 29, says of running the airy cafe known for its beautifully prepared dishes and laid-back vibes.
On having her firstborn by her side, Donna says, “I’m so happy to do this journey with him.”
“When Black people who still live here come by, and people from the neighborhood who haven’t been back in a while come by, this is something that says: We’re still here.”
It’s all about the brunch at Cafe On Ralph, which is now served all week. The menu, designed by Chef Nduvoakim Abdus-Salaam, focuses on seasonal dishes that are clean, simple and elegant.
Not to be missed are the luscious lobster and grits; succulent, crispy-skinned duck and waffles; extra-fluffy baked vegan pancakes; and a heaping green smoothie bowl that doubles as art. Their top-selling avocado toast is legendary: a thick, buttery piece of country toast topped with mashed avocado, big slices of more avocado, lemon zest and smoked paprika (we recommend adding a poached egg on top). Everything is presented with care and attention to detail.
To adjust with statewide restrictions on dining in, last week the cafe launched a smart new grocery delivery service called Just Ralph It. With a wide assortment, from fresh fruits and veggies, to dry goods and housemade specialties (pickled shallots, avocado spread, jerk sauce, rum punch and more), order online to have them conveniently delivered to your doorstep.
In time for Mother’s Day (reminder: it’s this Sunday!), Just Ralph It also carries special packages of flowers, wine, macarons and other treats.
“I’m from St. Lucia, so I wanted Cafe On Ralph to feel like a vacation, like you’re not even in the concrete jungle of Brooklyn,” Donna says of the cafe’s design, which does emit tropical vibes with bright Tiffany blue walls, punchy orange and yellow seats, and sunlight spilling through big floor-to-ceiling windows. 🇱
But Brooklyn-born-and-raised Jamal has a different take on what the space represents. “Being a Black-owned business in a gentrified neighborhood, especially as someone who grew up in this neighborhood, means keeping a piece of home for ourselves,” he says. “When Black people who still live here come by, and people from the neighborhood who haven’t been back in a while come by, this is something that says, ‘We’re still here.’ Bed-Stuy may look different, but we’re still here.”
86 Ralph Ave, Brooklyn, 347-413-5753, cafeonralphavenue.com
